Climbing MECCA of China

November 4^th

After eating an entire duck and crashing out early last night, I woke up at the crack of dawn to take a bamboo boat down the Li river. I had heard from others in the hostel that I should stay for a few days in Yangshou, which was supposedly a backpackers haven. I was picked up shortly thereafter by a bus full of tourists and dirtbag types. We drove in the bus for an hour through the countryside, I talked a bit with a group of UK travellers that had just come from Tibet. We arrived at the riverside and instantly were greeted by some incredible beauty.

We loaded on to the boat and proceeded to float for two and a half hours down the river For the entirety of the trip, we were greeted by 360 degree views of limestone spires, called Karst formations. 

When we arrived on the river shore, we were picked up by these interesting carts, and driven through the countryside. I picked up a citrus fruit that looked like a giant pear called a pomello and then got on another bus for 40 minutes. Finally, I arrived in Yangshou. On the way, I found out that all the beautiful rock I had been seen could and had been getting climbed.

Something seemed strange the minute I arrived. Hundreds of backpackers, English spoken everywhere and lots of Chinese and English people with ropes and climbing racks slung to their rented bicycles. The town was full of cool shops, restaurants and people. I then found a street full of climbing shops, schools, climber bars and a flourishing climbing scene. Within an hour I had found a 3 dollar room in the Climber owned “Climbers Inn” and a wicked climbing partner with a similar ability but much more experience by the name of Darren. Since my climbing gear is on a boat to Canada, I had to pick up a new harness, which was a little pricey and some new shoes, which were sold at wholesale price. I was able to climb with every evolve shoe model to find the right type for my foot. 

 

In the end, I found myself at the bouldering gym Chinaclimb, getting schooled by some incredible climbers and breaking in my new shoes while drinking a big bottle of beer. I crashed out for my 8am wake up.

November 5^th

I woke up stoked, it was 8am and I was meeting Darren to go hit some rock. After a coffee and a stroll through the town just waking up, I met Darren for breakfast and we looked over a guide book. We were joined by a beginner, a French guy by the name of Sebastien. We decided to hit up a rock called the Egg. We got some bikes and began a 10km ride through the chaotic streets of China. We wove through motorcycles, busses, tractors, scooters, bicycle like devices, water buffalo, old people and other random madness. We turned off the paved road and followed a concrete path through the beautiful countryside. The rock we climbed this day is to the right of the photo here.

The concrete path turned into some fun single track weaving through orchards of Pomellos and oranges before arriving at the foot of the beautiful rock. Gearing up, we hit a basic 5.9 warm-up. and I found the new style challenging, the next 10a redpoint lead that was tough enough for me to give a whoop at the anchors. The echo through the numerous spires was awesome. We chased the light back to town and arrived back in Yangshou for another night of great food, great drinks and great people.

Darren and I decided that the next day we would climb a 5 pitch route, L’Echo des Montagnes getting almost to the top of this piece of rock: Low Mountain.

Nov 6th.

We woke up same time and hit another restaurant for another amazing breakfast. We then went to our bike lady and got riding. We drove in a different direction for about 10k. The bumpy path cut a ribbon through the beautiful countryside. We arrived at the foot of Low Mountain. The route worked up the right side and despite being easier than expected, it was still great adventurous fun. There were a few spooky moves on an exposed traverse but overall it was a great adventure. A Free hanging rappel into a cave was a fine end to the outing.

We arrived down to a path after another 50 meter rappel, stoked on the great adventure climb. I knew, as this was my last night in Yangshou, I took my time on the bike ride back to Yangshou, enjoying the spectacular vistas all around me.

Nov 7^th

Meeting Darren for our usual breakfast and route picking, we decided that we should hit up one of the more difficult but arguably the most picturesque crags in the area - Moon hill.

After doing the usual 10km bike ride into the country, followed by a decent hike up the mountain, we arrived at moon hill. The climbing was sustained and overhung with numerous people projecting hard overhung routes. A great show

After getting worked, humbled and amazed, I descended to earth and prepared to voyage out of Yangshou. At the base of the climbing wall I bought a beer from a silver toothed lady who I had promised that I “pijiu later”. I am thankful that she carried one up for me, and I didn’t mind paying her inflated asking price of 1 dollar free of haggle. Here she is

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I drove back to Yangshou and hurriedly packed my bags. An hour and a half after coming off the rope, I had said my goodbyes to fellow climbers, especially my solid climbing partner Darren, and was enroute to the Guilin airport. By 1 AM I had landed over 1500 km away in Chengdu.

Nov 8^th

I am writing this accounts on a down day in Chengdu, writing and drinking coffee. I get on a train tomorrow and depart for the roof of the world. The week after, I will be trekking in the Himalayas in Nepal, seeing Everest by foot.